You want to take good care of your skin, but what do you actually know about the ingredients of the products you're using? Have you ever thought about the fact that roughly 60% of your skin care products are absorbed by your body? Did you know that most ingredients of commercial skin care products, such as facial serums or day creams, are anything but edible? Pharmacies, drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with so-called natural skin care products, but what does that label actually say? In my workshops you will learn what that list of ingredients actually means and what it does, without scaremongering or mincing my words. During my workshops you will learn how to make different natural skin care products. We will only use natural ingredients and after the workshop you return home with several luxurious, homemade natural skin care products that are perfectly tailored to your skin type.

natural skin care products
natural skin care products

 

Why should you care about natural skin care?

Commercial skin care products such as deodorant, sunscreen and lip balm are under scrutiny, suspected of causing breast cancer and lymphoma. A lot of research is conducted on the potential harmfulness, both by manufacturers and scientists. Although no conclusive evidence for possible carcinogenicity has yet been found, it is better to be safe than sorry. Know your ingredients and look for the best of alternatives!

 

Ingredients of commercial skin care products

It is very interesting to look at the list of ingredients of skin care products, because it often contain substances with problematic effects. Every day countless women and men apply deodorant under their armpits, where many sensitive breast and lymph nodes are located. The skin, the largest organ of the body, is soaked with large amounts of sunscreen. Lips are not only very sensitive organs themselves, the lip balm that apply will also end up partially in your gut. It is therefore important to be very careful and continue using your common sense. Below is an overview of the most controversial ingredients, their effects and potential risks:

 

Alcohol

Many commercial deodorants are alcohol based. Although alcohol in itself stimulates sweating, it can also  (temporarily) kill bacteria. Since bacteria are the main cause of body odours, alcohol is often added to deodorant. Unfortunately, alcohol dehydrates the skin, which causes an unpleasant feeling under your armpits.

Aluminum

Antiperspirants often contain aluminum salts, mostly aluminum chlorohydrate or aluminum zirconium. These substances react to the electrolytes in sweat and thus form a gel that blocks sweat producing glands. In addition, they have an astringent effect on the pores. This ensures that sweat cannot reach the skin surface. A natural body function is thereby blocked. Aluminium salts clog the lymphatic system and block the natural discharge of waste. This in itself is a very good reason for avoiding aluminum salts. There are also people who reject the use of aluminum salts because of the potential cause of breast cancer and Alzheimer's disease. Although this has not been proven yet, a lot of research is being done, so hopefully there will be more clarity in the future.

Still, there are lots of people who better avoid using deodorants with aluminum - such as people with kidney problems.  Their bodies are unable to excrete aluminum through the urine, as is the case in healthy people. It is important to know though that aluminum is the third most frequently found mineral on earth and that we are exposed to aluminium on a daily base through food, water and countless other products. Even if you a deodorant with aluminum on a daily basis, you still will absorb less aluminum than through your food and your water.

Parabens

Parabens are preservatives which are used in many skin care products. Parabens are often found in tumors, but there is no evidence that they are also the cause of those tumors. Scientists think that some parabens mimic the hormone estrogen and is therefore able to influence hormone regulation. A lot of research is still being done. Until more is known, it may be wise to stay cautious.

Fragrances

Fragrances are used in almost all skin care products to mask the body odors. They can be made with pure and natural essential oils, but more often they are made with synthetic substances. Essential oils smell good and often have additional properties that support the skin. However, some essential oils are known to cause allergic reactions, so pay attention if you have sensitive skin. Synthetic substances include a number of endocrine disruptors. Because manufacturers are not obliged to specify the content substances of perfumes (trade secret!), you will never know for sure what is meant by "perfumes". For example, there are also preservatives that are classified under the name "perfumes"!

 

Propylene glycol

Propylene glycol is an organic compound that is used in cosmetics to retain moisture or as a solvent for colors and flavors. It is often added to antitranspirants. In some individuals, this substance causes skin irritation.

Triclosan

Triclosan is a substance that inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi and was therefore often added to deodorant in the past. However, there is some controversy about the antimicrobial effectiveness of the substance, potential resistance and the possible role in human hormone disruption. In addition, it is associated with food allergies (due to lack of healthy exposure to bacteria), with the development of tumors and with contact dermatitis (skin inflammations). Triclosan accumulates in wastewater and ends up in the environment and in your drinking water due to incomplete purification. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the European Union recognized it in 2016 as a substance that is generally not considered safe and effective. In the EU you can safely assume that it is no longer used in deodorant. The fact that it was only recently decided that it is unsafe, indicates that new research provides new insight. Something that is regarded as safe one day is therefore not necessarily safe in the future. In short, there are many ingredients in deodorants that irritate the skin or that may pose long-term health risks.

 

Oxybenzon or benzophenone-3

Oxybenzon is a widely used sun blocking ingredient in sunscreens. It has been officially approved, but there has been a lot of debate for years. It is supposed to protect against UV-B radiation and part of the UV-A radiation. There are a number of problems with this substance. First, it is a leading cause of skin irritation. Many people get a rash, especially when exposed to sunlight. Secondly, oxybenzon is easily absorbed into the body through the skin, causing it to build up in all kinds of organs. It has even been found in breast milk! Other solar filters are also absorbed into the body, but the absorption of oxybenzone is exceptionally high. Third, oxybenzon has a hormonal activity. The substance enters a hormone receptor and mimics the effect of the hormone. It is not yet known to what extent this is harmful. The effects of long-term use or use by certain risk groups - such as pregnant women, breastfeeding women and women with a higher risk of breast cancer - are unknown. Fourth, oxybenzone can form radicals and thereby contribute to cell damage and cancer formation. Incidentally, it has never been demonstrated in humans that oxybenzone increases the risk of developing cancer tumors.

 

Octinoxate or octylmethoxycinnamate

This UV filter is used against UV-B radiation, often in combination with oxybenzon. It contains the same risks as oxybenzon, but it is not as quickly absorbed in the body and the chance of skin irritation is slightly smaller. Tests on animals has shown that this substance can disrupt the estrogen balance, thyroid function and signal function in the brain. When exposed to sunlight, this ingredient causes a strong increase in free radicals, which in turn increase the risk of cancer. The effects on human health have not yet been demonstrated.

 

Padimate O (octyl dimethyl paba or paba ester)

This is one of the most commonly used UV-B filters in sunscreen products. This substance breaks down into free radicals under bright sunlight. Free radicals are known to damage the DNA, which can lead to cancer. On the one hand, Padimate O prevents damage to the DNA by UV radiation, but on the other hand, Padimate O causes damage to the DNA by free radicals. In conclusion, the remedy may be worse than the ailment.

 

Polyethylene glycol

Polyethylene glycol or PEG is a synthesized ingredient that is used in cosmetics as emulsifier. PEG is considered safe in itself. The problem is that during the production process, 1,4-dioxane can be released, a carcinogenic substance. PEG can be contaminated with this substance, so it might end up in your product. Research shows that quality control is not always watertight and that traces of 1,4-dioxane are often found in the end products. Enough reasons to avoid PEG as an ingredient.

 

Silicones and paraffin

Silicones and paraffin make creams smearable. However, they close your skin, make the cream waterproof but are therefore difficult to wash off. They prevent natural waste products from being discharged from your skin and disrupt the moisture balance of the skin. Better stay clear of this ingredient.

 

Titanium dioxide

Titanium dioxide is a mineral sunscreen that protects the skin against both UV-A and UV-B radiation. It is widely used in natural sunscreen products in combination with zinc oxide. It has a good safety profile and rarely causes skin irritation and is neither toxic nor carcinogenic when applied to the skin. In the original form it leaves a white haze on the skin, which is not so pleasant. That is also why I do not use it during the workshops. If you do not mind the white haze, you can use titanium dioxide in a homemade cream or lotion. It significantly increases the SPF. The solution that has been developed to prevent the white haze is to reduce these minerals to nano level. The smaller the particles, the more transparent the sunscreen is on the skin. At the same time, this reduces the protection against UV-A radiation. However, little is known about possible health effects of nanoparticles. The nanoparticles are not absorbed through the skin and therefore do not appear to pose a health risk. There is some evidence that they can be carcinogenic when inhaled.

 

Alum

Alum are mineral salts that are used in deodorants because of their antibacterial and antiperspirant properties. They are used in the form of deodorant crystals that you can apply under your armpit. Many deodorant crystals contain potassium, ammonium or potassium alum. They are usually considered less dangerous than regular deodorants. Alum, on the other hand, still contains aluminum and can sometimes cause contact dermatitis (skin inflammation).

 

Which ingredients are safe for natural skin care products?

Certainly not all ingredients are harmful. Active substances in deodorants are, for example, sodium stearate, sodium chloride and stearyl alcohol. These are harmless substances that usually do not cause problems (although there are always exceptions).

• Sodium stearate is the main ingredient of hard soap. It is a substance that is extracted during the saponification of vegetable oils with stearic acid.
• Sodium chloride is also called table salt and is widely used in food and as a preservative.
• Stearyl alcohol is made from stearic acid, a fatty acid found in certain vegetable and animal fats. In the skin care products that you learn to make at Scent & Spice, we use natural oils and herbs that have been used for hundreds of years.

 

Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is a mineral sunscreen that protects the skin against UV - A and UV - B radiation. It is widely used in natural sunscreen products, combined with titanium dioxide. Like titanium dioxide, it is considered very safe. In the presentation form it leaves a opaque white haze on the skin, which might not be very pleasant. Therefore I chose not to use it during my workshops. If you do not mind some white haze, you can use zinc oxide in any homemade cream or lotion, because it significantly increases the SPF. There is a solution at hand to prevent the haze (nanoparticles), but it has the same drawbacks as titanium dioxide.

 

My alternative: make your own natural skin care products

Fortunately nature provides sufficient alternatives. In this article I obviously can not share everything with you, but this information about natural skin care I tell you in one of my courses or workshops. Scent & Spice organizes several workshops in which you will learn to make your own natural skin care products. You will learn how to make a natural day cream, facial serum or a soothing facial mask. Natural skin care is also discussed during the longer courses. In the courses we will delve deeper into the fascinating world of herbal constituents and you will learn to make different products for natural skin care for yourself and your beloved ones. In the different articles (only in Dutch for the moment) you will find background information, various ideas and recipes with which you can immediately start experimenting. Please, let me know if you would like to know more about a particular theme and if you didn't find an appropiate answer here.